Dice Setting, Setting the Dice

Dice Setting, Setting dice - craps dice control

Betting TIPS

Betting Tip For The Come Out Roll

On come out roll - lay $40 against the 4 and 10.

I do this on the come out roll. When I say to the dealer, "I want to lay $40 against the outside two" I mean I want to lay $20 against the 4 and lay $20 against the 10.

I set the "no 4 10 seven set," when I roll a seven (which happens quite often). I get paid even money on my pass line bet and $20 -$1 vig on my lay bets.

I will do this over and over for as long as I am on the come out portion of the game. When I roll a point number, I take the lay bets down. If the point is a 4 or a 10, I lose the lay bet which is on that number. Otherwise, I take them down whenever I establish a point.

A 4 or a 10 on the come out is the only way I can lose this bet and then I lose only the $$ on that particular number. I never ever lay during the point cycle.

I must roll a seven at a rate of 17.04% of the time to beat the House Advantage (2.44% with a 5% commission, 1.952% with a 4% commission) on these bets. Random is 16.667%. A shooter that can hold a rolls-to-seven ratio of 1:5 on the come out has a huge advantage over the house on these bets.

Ideas For Betting In The Point Cycle

I'd like to introduce two concepts that have always been out there in craps theory, but that I believe we need to bring more to the forefront. One is the concept of "hit and down" and the other is the concept of regression. Hit and down is simply hitting a given number of place bets and then taking down your original bets. It is a conservative approach that is designed to produce a small, steady profit on the short to medium hands, and minimize the drawdowns that can occur while waiting for the monster hand. Regression is the concept of pressing your winning bets during a good hand to a certain degree, but then dropping back down to your starting unit size before the inevitable 7-out. It, too, is designed to put more profits in your chip rack, and not leave them on the table.

Think about your play sessions for a minute, whether practice at home or the real thing.

How many times has this happened?

You're throwing reasonably well, numbers are repeating, but just not the ones you're on. I'll throw a medium hand of 8 or 10 rolls and won't really have anything to show for it. This can also happen with place betting. In this also common scenario I'll throw that same solid, if unspectacular, hand, of 8 to 12 rolls. Sometimes two or three of these in succession. Nothing dramatic, but I'm definitely throwing better than random. But whether I'm flat betting or pressing my place bets modestly, when the 7 comes after these 8 to 12 rolls, I only have a unit or two in profit, tops. I've left my initial investment and most of my wins on the table.

So here's my plan to combat this. It is designed to get us ahead early in the game, enable us to play with the house's money, and then either go for the kill, or if we're not lucky enough to get the monster roll, at least take home a worthwhile profit. It involves steps which have always existed, but for me, at least needed some more structure.

This all assumes you're already warmed up. This is quite basic, and is always stressed, but I know that I've often tricked myself into thinking I'm warmed up because I'm throwing numbers, but in reality my tosses are still random. So I'll remind everyone here that unless you've got a hotel room and a traveling PARR box that gets you warmed up before hitting the casino floor, start slowly. Just a minimum pass line bet with no odds. The number of hands needed to warmup will vary. For me, I used to need 20 throws or more, but now I only need 6 to 12. Just know how many you need before jumping in with real money at risk.

OK, now on to playing for real

Step 1: All I'm suggesting here is that before jumping right into either come or place bets, you go with one or two hands of "three hits and down." This involves taking the place bets down after three hits. Whether you just like the 6 and 8, or all four inside numbers is up to you.

You 3-V shooters can probably make the 6 and 8 work. I'm a hardways set guy, and I'll often throw lots of 5s and 9s before the 6/8s kick in. The point here is it's early in the session, we're not fully grooved in yet, but we can still take down some profits. In this case, I'm risking three units by placing the 6, 8 and either the 5 or 9 for one unit each. If the point is one of these, the other three place bets are obvious.

If the point is 4 or 10, I'll go with just the 6,8 and either the 5 or 9. On the first hit I'll use the profits to place the missing inside number. Then it's just two more hits, and I say to the dealer, "Take all my place bets down." I've just made four units plus profit. I'll continue my throw and now I don't care if I throw numbers like crazy. I'm just relaxed and getting myself really grooved in.

Do this at least two times. Depending on whether you're making your points or not, this should get you to plus 5 to 8 units ahead fairly quickly and easily in a minimum of two separate turns of the dice. If you have a quick 7-out, don't despair. It'll just take an extra hand or two at this level to get that money back, plus that slight profit.

Step 2: This is simply regular come betting! My difference here is that I'm already ahead a few units with little risk, and am now hopefully more grooved in. I don't have the tension of throwing 6 full units out there (pass line with double odds, come bet with double odds) and worrying about a quick 7-out.

I'm now more likely to throw that classic hand of repeating numbers. PARR's Signature Trend Strategies allow a PARR player to achieve two or three quick wins and be profitable on an average roll of only six or seven tosses of the dice. The long roll is not necessary.

My problem with this has always been that the added muscle tension in my throwing arm that comes with having nearly one-third of my session bankroll at risk in a single hand is too much for me to throw well. Step 1 eliminates this tension for me.

Step 3: Now my goal is to get to a "magic number" of plus 12 units or so. This will happen with at least two turns of "three hits and down" in Step 1, and just one medium Step 2 hand of 8 to 12 rolls. Now I'm really relaxed, hopefully fully grooved in, and ready to go for the kill. The important thing here is that I now "lock up" 10 units of profits in my pocket, and only risk whatever is left. A 12-unit profit at this point now gives me 2 units to play with; if there are more, all the better.

Now I'm just going to proceed with those 2 units at risk. This might simply be a pass line bet and a come bet, with no odds on either. Or it might be just a place bet on the 6 and 8 and down after a hit or two.

If my throws remain good, these two units will grow slightly, and I can relax even more, return to normal come betting, and just sit back and have fun. And this is where the monster rolls are especially likely to occur! This is where we really have the chance to enjoy those twenty-, thirty-, or sixty-minute rolls that are the stuff of PARR legends. But here's the kicker. If we should 7-out quickly in Step 3 and lose those 2 units, I'm ready to close this session with a 10-unit profit. Nothing dramatic, but enough to make the whole session worth my while.

This is where the synergy of these three steps together really works for me.

This article orginally appeared in the Sharpshooter/PARR On-Line Information Library. Free access to the full library is available to all who take the Sharpshooter/PARR course.